The fashion installation "Mind Immersion / Inverted Path", signed by Lucian Broscăţean, is built on the idea of an initiatic path sprinkled with signs, symbols and visual metaphors of the identity "construct". The self-referentiality of the "initiatic path" originates in the literary work of James Joyce and Tennesse Williams.
"Mind immersion / Inverted path" can be interpreted as a visual description of James Joyce's "Ulysses" quotation: "Think you're escaping and run into yourself. Longest way round is the shortest way home". Mikhail Bakhtin believed that in modernity the character is showing: "…the image of a man in the process of becoming. …[The hero] emerges along with the world and he reflects the historical emergence of the world itself. He is no longer within an epoch, but on the border between two epochs, at the transition point from one to the other. The transition is accomplished in him and through him… It is as though the very foundations of the world are changing, and man must change along with them." 1
Lucian Broscăţean develops his fashion design projects as a state of consciousness where the viewer is aware of the link between the object and the past, but is practically projected in the near future. Embracing the geometric elements from the traditional costumes from Sibiu (Hermannstadt), Transylvania he configures a dark visual identity creating pieces of clothing which can be interpreted as hybrid sculptures. The monochrome of traditional black and white costumes unleashes a monastic austerity and rigor, which influences the emotional intelligence of the fashion designer from childhood even. He confessed: "The obsession with black & white geometries of the traditional costumes specific for Sibiu / Hermannstadt - the hometown, the austerity of monastic items from Orthodox monasteries in the North-Eastern part of Romania, the symbolism of black esoteric shapes and layering, early childhood instinctive drag styling, a strange atmosphere -configure a dark visual identity which generates hybrid clothes and sculptures." This atypical, almost monastic universe leads to the emergence of visual metaphors interfering with the space in which they are located. Hybrid dresses, rigorous cuts, volumetric geometries, reformulated details express a type of reflection from the traditional environment with the interference of new technologies, the decomposition of "great narratives," the deconstruction and reconstruction of the archaic symbol itself. The cross, the point, the line, the square are all interpretations and visual representations of intellectual and emotional intelligence.
Including a series of old photographs, illustrating in black and white Lucian Broscăţean's childhood and embedded pieces of clothing - containing elements taken from popular costumes from Sibiu county (Hermannstadt) - the monochrome project "Mind immersion / Inverted path" explores the most hidden nooks of humans psycho. The idea of mirror and mirroring as an element of psychoanalysis at Freud and Lacan is found in the construction of the installation, both through the direct mirroring of autobiographical photographs and clothing, which refer to an intermediary mirroring: the cloth becomes a witness of the past, and a communicator of the future.
Curator: Diana Dochia
1. M. M. Bakhtin, “The Bildungsroman and Its Significance in the History of Realism (Toward a Historical Typology of the Novel)” in Speech Genres & Other Late Essays ed. Caryl Emerson and Michael Holquist trans. Vern W. McGee, Austin, University of Texas Press, 1986, p.23-24
Lucian Broscățean was born in 1985 in Sibiu (Hermannstadt), Romania. He graduated from the BA & MA Programs of the Fashion Design Department – University of Art and Design Cluj-Napoca, Romania. From UAD he received a Summa Cum Laude PhD in Visual Arts. Now he is teaching as Senior Lecturer at the same institution. Through the years Lucian participated, with his fashion-art projects, at various national and international events: Romanian Fashion Week, Mercedes-Benz Berlin Fashion Week, International Fashion Showcase at London Fashion Week, MQ Vienna Fashion Week. He won several awards including: ‘Special Mention’ at the International Fashion Showcase @London Fashion Week, Arts of Fashion ‘Wendy & Jim and YKK’ Awards at MOMA San Francisco, Beau Monde Magazine’s ‘Crystal Globe’ for Best Romanian Designer, 3 times nominee for ‘ELLE Style Awards Romania’ Best Designer Category, 3rd place in the Fashion Design category and 42nd place in the general ‘Top 100 Cool Brands’ made by Forbes Romania. In 2009 he worked for 4 months at the cutting-edge Viennese label Wendy & Jim. Between 2011 and 2017 Lucian was the Creative Director of Irina Schrotter’s brand. This complex collaboration helped him get the know-how and the experience of a commercial line presented at International Fashion Weeks and Fashion Fairs in Paris, Berlin, Milano, London, New York, Vienna and Shanghai. He lives and works in Cluj-Napoca (Klausenburg), Romania.